K2 Basecamp Trek – Throne Room of The Mountain Gods

Our representative will pick up all group members upon arrival at Islamabad International Airport and take them to the group hotel. Most international flights arrive in the early morning, and you may want to rest before lunch. The first group get-together will be at lunch, during which the tour leader will provide a pre-trip briefing. In the afternoon, it may be necessary for the whole group to visit the offices of the Ministry of Tourism to receive an official briefing about visiting restricted areas whilst our agent completes the permit formalities. The trip leader will organize this if it is required. Depending on the time available to us, there may be the option to do some sightseeing in Islamabad, a city purpose-built in 1961 as the new capital of Pakistan. Alternatively, we could visit the Twin City of Rawalpindi, a town from the days of the British Raj. The two cities are very different; the older settlement is rather sprawling with enormous and complicated bazaars where you can quickly get fascinatingly lost. Islamabad, by contrast, is much more open, a modern city with many parks and wide streets arranged on a grid system.

We will take the early morning 1-hour flight from Islamabad to Skardu, skirting breathtakingly past the Rupal and Diamir faces of Nanga Parbat (8126m), the world’s ninth highest peak. Before landing at Skardu, it is possible to catch a fleeting glimpse of K2 and the other high mountains of the Baltoro in the distance. Here, we check in to the group hotel and can spend the afternoon looking around the bazaar, visiting the nearby Kharpocho Fort, Sadpara lake, and Manthal Rock Budha. OR In case of flight cancellation due to weather, drive from Islamabad via Karakoram Highway with short stops at various touristic spots.

Today, we will have free time for acclimatization, shopping and local visits. BTV’s team will be busy taking NOCs, food shopping, packing and all other arrangements. Or, if the group arrives overland from Islamabad, they will drive from Chilas to Skardu (7-8 hours) with multiple short stops.

Making a reasonably early start, we leave Skardu by jeep for the long drive to the beginning of our trek. The road mainly surfaces as we pass through the relatively fertile Shigar Valley but deteriorates after 3 hours as we turn eastwards to follow the Braldu River. By mid-afternoon, we reach Askole, a single street of wood and mud-brick houses backed by irrigated fields of corn and potatoes and groves of apricot trees. Leaving this, the highest village in the valley, we continue our drive through a wild landscape, crossing the Braldu twice as we pass the snout of the mighty Biafo Glacier. We cross this tributary on a suspension bridge and set up our camp a little way beyond the bridge at the place known as Jhola Camp (3100m).

We make an early start today for our first proper day of hiking and trekking. The trail takes us out of the tributary Panama Valley with your hiking poles and hiking sticks and turns east to follow the Braldu River once again. We continue on a good path of mountain trekking, passing a couple of old camping places with the best walking poles at Chowblok and Bardomal which are now rarely used as much of the level ground has been eroded by the shifting river. Beyond these old camping places, the path runs for a while at the very edge of the river, before climbing with your hiking packs and hiking sticks to higher ground and allowing us excellent views of the impressive Paiju Peak. We have to negotiate a couple of streams today and depending on the melting of the glaciers above, we may have to ford these (sports sandals or old trainers useful) on these rocky mountains. At our high point today we have views ahead to the snout of the Baltoro Glacier and the granite peaks of the Trango and Cathedral groups. On a clear day, it is even possible to see K2 best treks in Pakistan, which is partially obscured by the shark’s fin of the Lobsang Spire. After dropping down to the main Braldu River again, we reach the expedition staging camp at Paiju (3420m).

Paiju is the traditional stopping point for all groups headed for Concordia, located at a widening of the Braldu Valley and within sight of the snout of the mighty Baltoro Glacier. This is a key staging point for climbing expeditions and trekking groups due to spring water and a sparse population of trees originally used for cooking fires. Today there are several leveled pitches for tents, and the site is equipped with ‘long-drop’ toilets and wash basins – a ‘bathroom’ with one of the best views in the world! We spend a whole day at Paiju, which is good for our acclimatization and a good time for our porters to bake as much bread as they can for the trek before we climb onto the glacier. For those with energy to spare, there is the opportunity to hike up the hill above camp for extensive views of the granite towers of Trango and Cathedral peaks and potentially another glimpse of K2, still many miles distant. We spend a second night at Paiju.

Another early start today. After about an hour’s walk, we will enter the Baltoro Glacier. After viewing the outpouring of meltwater from the ice, we now climb up onto the back of this great beast. The trail undulates as we climb over the swells of the flowing glacier, and it is fascinating to think that the stones underfoot could have come from the summit of Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, or K2. Gradually we work our way across the glacier to its south side, where we can use a path along the lateral moraine. At this point, it may be possible to continue more or less directly by climbing up onto the glacier. Or, if the glacier is not easily accessible, we will turn off into the valley for approximately half an hour to reach a point where we can cross the meltwater stream (sandals or old trainers are required). Finally, reaching the camping place at Khoburtse (3795m), we have sensational views of the Cathedral Towers, the Trango Group and the striking rock tower of Uli Biaho. A great day of trekking over rugged and mixed terrain.

We have a shorter day today, mindful of the need to increase our sleeping altitude slowly. We continue east beside the Baltoro Glacier either along the lateral moraine or sometimes on the glacier itself, passing the ship-like prow of Great Trango and the isolated pillar of the ‘Nameless Tower’ to our next camp at Urdukas (3900m). This campsite is perched a hundred meters above the glacier on terraces hacked initially out of the hillside by the Duke of Abruzzi’s K2 expedition of 1909. It has sensational views of the Trango Towers to the west and directly opposite. Almost a mile away across the valley, the vast rock walls of Cathedral Peak and Lobsang rise like ramparts above the glacier. We should reach here in time for a late lunch, and the rest of the afternoon is free to tend to camp chores or to soak up the extraordinary landscape.

Leaving Urdukas behind, we follow the moraine edge eastwards until it is possible to climb up onto the broad back of the glacier. We now cross to the center-ground with hiking poles and trekking poles where the ‘flow’ is generally smoother and soon we come within sight of the spectacular Masherbrum (7821m) on our right-hand side. Ascending and descending the rocky mountains of rubble that are strewn over the ice, we also have glimpses ahead of the peaks which surround Concordia. Especially prominent is the stunning Gasherbrum IV (7925m) at the head of the glacier. There are good views back towards the Trango and Cathedral peaks as we approach our camp tent at the place known as ‘Goro’ (4295m). We are quite high now and camping with all camping essentials on one of the largest pieces of ice outside the polar regions, so we will make sure to wrap up warmly for the cooler nights ahead.

Our approach to Concordia continues along the heaving swells of the Baltoro Glacier as we pass Mustagh Tower (7284m), an imposing monolith of rock first climbed by Joe Brown and Ian McNaught-Davis in 1956. Ahead of us, Gasherbrum IV (7925m) acts like a beacon drawing us on, whilst at some points on today’s walk; we can also see Gasherbrum ll (8035m), which peeks out to the right of Gasherbrum lV. As we make our way up the Baltoro, the aptly named Broad Peak (8051m) comes into view above the ridge connecting Marble Peak and Crystal Peak on our left. K2 keeps itself hidden until we reach Concordia, whose full face is suddenly revealed in sweeping lines that climb almost 4000 metres from the valley floor to the summit – a sight that will never be forgotten. Concordia is a vast area where glaciers coming down from K2 meet those from the Gasherbrums and Chogolisa. It is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular places on the planet, and here you can stand within 24 kilometres of no fewer than four eight-thousanders and ten of the world’s thirty highest peaks! We camp at approximately 4500 metres on a moraine ridge surrounded by jagged peaks, including Gasherbrum IV, Mitre Peak, Chogolisa, Crystal Peak, Marble Peak, Baltoro Kangri, Broad Peak and K2.

Getting an early start, we make our way out of the immediate area of our camp and are soon in a maze of crevasses and meltwater rivers. During the climbing season, this is a trade route for the porters who supply expeditions up at the Broad Peak and K2 basecamps, so there will be an established trail, but a guide is essential here. After negotiating the difficult ground where two glaciers meet, we eventually reach easy terrain and follow the medial moraine of the Godwin Austen Glacier, named after the surveyor who first established the height of K2 in 1860. Coming first to Broad Peak Basecamp after approximately 3 hours of trekking, we can stop and admire the sensational view of K2 in one direction and look back to Concordia framed by Mitre Peak, the bulk of Chogolisa, also known as ‘Bride Peak’. Beyond Broad Peak Basecamp, the going gets a little more challenging as we negotiate the swells of the glacier and more glacial streams. After 3 hours, we reach the moraine ‘island’ known as ‘the strip’, the traditional basecamp area for attempts on the Abruzzi Ridge, the usual route on K2. If time permits, we can also visit the Gilkey Memorial, where the names of those who have died climbing K2 are inscribed on a collection of plaques and plates. For those taking the option to visit K2 Basecamp, this is a strenuous but rewarding day of approximately 10 – 12 hours of walking on rough glacial terrain with at least 600 metres of ascent and descent. Anyone who does not wish to make this excursion can trek to Broad Peak Basecamp and get all of the truly fantastic views back towards Concordia, plus the best views of K2 within a 5 – 6 hour round trip. It is also possible to take today as a rest day if you wish, enjoying the marvellous situation of Concordia.

This morning we can take a last look at K2 before packing the gear and heading back down the Baltoro. In descent, we can make longer stages, and today we go past Goro to a campsite of our approach route at a place known simply as Shachspong (4100m). The word Shachspong is Balti for a big pile of stones which seems ironic considering the landscape through which we are trekking. Still, this is a reasonably elevated part of the stone-covered glacier, making for a perfect viewing platform. Down the valley, the serried ranks of granite towers and spires of the Lobsang, Cathedral, and Trango move into the distance, beyond which lie the peaks of Uli Biaho and Paiju. Directly opposite to the south is the snow-capped red granite spire of Masherbrum. This is an atmospheric place, and now that they are headed for home, our crew may want to have a party. Almost anything can be a musical or percussion instrument and if you have the chance, listening to the voices of the Baltis in full song is quite a fantastic experience.

We continue our descent of the Baltoro Glacier. It is amazing how different everything looks in descent with our constant field of vision now filled with an entirely different view. The drop in altitude starts to become more noticeable as the granite walls and spires lining the glacier, which yesterday looked almost lower than us, now tower to lofty heights above. It is also a little warmer and there is more oxygen in the air. Passing through the campsite of the Duke of Abruzzi at Urdukas we can marvel at the tenacity of those early pioneers who endured untold hardship simply to get to their basecamps. After taking lunch on the Duke’s terrace, with sensational views of Pakistan’s beautiful places across the glacier to Biale Peak which remains hidden except from this vantage point, we continue trekking down this huge valley, sometimes on the glacier and sometimes along the moraine or the valley sides until we reach Khoburtse, our first off-glacier camp for some days. Ahead now we can make out the end of the glacier and the start of the valley of the Braldu. We can even see the patches of green on the lower slopes of Paiju Peak which mark the location of the spring water camp.

As on our approach, we must first detour to the south to cross the Liligo Glacier. This glacier defies world trends in that it is steadily growing. Twenty years ago, its snout was half a mile up the valley, and now it has collided with the main Baltoro Glacier, resulting in the churning forces making it impossible to cross without the detour. We have a superb view of Trango’s Nameless Tower (6239m), first climbed by Joe Brown and Mo Anthoine in 1976. To the left of the Tower, a smaller pinnacle is known as ‘The Monk’, and to the right is the graceful prow of Great Trango (6286m), first climbed in 1977 by John Roskelly and Galen Rowell. In August of 1992, two Australians, Nic Feteris and Glenn Singleman, climbed to a ledge on Great Trango at 5955m and then BASE jumped, falling hundreds of metres close to the rock walls before opening their chutes and landing on the glacier. At the time, this was the highest BASE jump on record. Having made the detour and returned to the main Baltoro Glacier, we now cross to its north side, climbing over the huge swells of the glacier towards the ramparts of Uli Biaho. On the other side, we then work our way down to the valley, where we pick up the main trail and pass by the snout, where the underground river, which flows through the length of the glacier, erupts out in a cascade to become the Braldu. The last hour of the day is an easy walk on a good path, although there is a final uphill pull to reach the campsite at Paiju. On our first arrival here, we relished the prospect of a cooler climate ahead.

Now we are off the glacier and at a lower elevation it is considerably warmer and we may make an early start to use the cool of the morning. Leaving Paiju we walk on a good trail down the valley. Once again it is surprising how different the experience is compared to our ascent. The trail rises and falls as we cross several alluvial fans. We have to cross some side streams today, mostly using makeshift bridges or stepping stones but it may be necessary also to wade across, especially later in the day. The source of all these streams is meltwater and so they grow bigger as the day gets warmer. At one point the trail passes close to the river beside walls of conglomerate and it is possible to feel its tremendous power. We follow the main Braldu River downstream to its confluence with the Panama River where we turn northeast to reach a camping place beside the toll bridge at the place known as Jhola.

Taking advantage of the recently constructed jeep track above Askole, we set off the long drive back to civilization after almost two weeks in the wilderness. We pass the traditional camping place at Korofon beside the Biafo Glacier, cross the Braldu twice and drive through the level area known locally as the ‘King’s Polo Ground’ to reach the green fields destination, stone walls, and houses of Askole. Continuing, we follow the remarkable jeep road through the Braldu Gorge and then travel down the fertile Shigar Valley to its confluence with the Indus. Arriving in Skardu, we check-in at our hotel and there will be time for a welcome shower and clean up before sitting down to dinner. Tonight we will enjoy the comfort of a real bed!

Skardu airport is a 40-minute drive from the hotel along a good road lined with poplar trees. Boarding our plane we have an exciting flight out of the valley, once again passing by Nanga Parbat rocky mountains before turning south for Islamabad. Arriving in the Pakistani capital after a period in the mountains is always a strange experience and it takes a little time to get used to the hustle and bustle and especially the traffic. Our private bus will be waiting at the airport to transfer us to the group hotel and once we have settled in it will be time to take lunch (unless we have experienced unusual flight delays). After lunch, the rest of the day is free for independent sightseeing or to relax at the hotel. Your trip leader guided tours will advise you on the possibilities for sightseeing. Shopping for hand-made rugs is a usually popular option. This evening we come together again for a celebratory meal at the hotel or in a local restaurant.

Skardu is a ‘weather dependent’ airport which means the planes will only fly here if the visibility allows line of sight to the runway by the pilot on the approach. Fortunately, the weather is mostly clear in the Karakoram but local weather conditions can bring clouds and rain from time to time. If we cannot fly we will travel down to Islamabad by road along the spectacular Karakoram Highway. If we flew up to Skardu this will be an added bonus as it is a fantastic travel experience in its own right. The drive down the Indus River to Islamabad takes two days so this is an important contingency day to allow for this. If we have flown to Islamabad this will be a further day for sightseeing in the capital and your climbing leader will advise the group on the options available for today.

Transfer to Islamabad Airport after breakfast.