The Road Between Two Kingdoms
For centuries, this was the road between two kingdoms.
The pass at 4,800 metres connected Khaplu in the east to Shigar in the northwest. Traders crossed it with pack animals. Messengers carried word between royal courts. During British rule, surveyors preferred it over alternative routes because the meadows on either side offered ample grazing. The Karakoram is famous for its glaciers and granite, but Thallay La tells a different story. This is the green side of the range.
A Trek Through Alpine Meadows, Not Glaciers
Most treks in the Karakoram involve moraine fields, glacier crossings, and technical terrain. Thallay La is different. The route crosses alpine meadows, wildflower pastures, and shepherd settlements. No crampons. No ropes. No mountaineering experience required.
The trek begins from Khaplu, the old capital of the Yabgo dynasty in Ghanche District. A two hour drive brings you to Thallay Broq, the first campsite at the edge of the Thalle Lungma valley. From there, the trail climbs steadily through Balti pastoral land. Shepherd huts dot the hillsides. Livestock graze in high pastures. The air smells of wild herbs and cedar.
Over four to five days, the route covers 38.5 kilometres, rising from the valley floor to a high camp at 4,180 metres before crossing the pass itself. The descent follows the Bauma Lungma valley into Shigar, arriving at the ancient town in roughly four hours from the summit.
The entire journey connects two of Baltistan’s oldest settlements, each with its own fort, its own history, and its own character.
What You See From the Top
The summit of Thallay La offers a 360 degree panorama of the Karakoram. The Masherbrum range dominates the eastern horizon. Mango Gusor, at 6,288 metres, rises to the north. Below, the valleys extend in both directions, green and brown and glacial blue, the full spectrum of Baltistan’s landscape compressed into a single view.
This is the reward for four days of walking: a vantage point that shows you both sides of the range without requiring you to strap on technical gear.
Two Ancient Towns, One Trek
The trek’s starting and ending points are destinations in their own right.
Khaplu was the seat of the Yabgo dynasty, the second largest kingdom in Baltistan. The Khaplu Palace, built in 1840, blends Tibetan, Kashmiri, Ladakhi, and Central Asian architectural styles. It has been restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture and now operates as a heritage hotel and museum. A few minutes away, Chaqchan Mosque has stood since 1370, making it one of the oldest in the region.
Shigar, on the western end, has its own fort (17th century, also restored as a heritage hotel) and sits at the gateway to the Shigar Valley, one of the primary approaches to K2 and the great glaciers of the central Karakoram.
Walking between these two towns is not just a trek. It is a passage through Baltistan’s history.
Who Is This Trek For
Thallay La is our introductory Karakoram trek. It is designed for travellers who want the experience of high altitude trekking in the Karakoram, the remoteness, the Balti communities, the mountain views, without the technical demands of routes like Gondogoro La or the Concordia circuit.
You need good general fitness and the ability to walk six to seven hours per day over uneven terrain. But you do not need climbing experience, glacier training, or specialised equipment.
The best window is June through August. July and August are ideal, with snow cleared from the pass and daytime temperatures comfortable for trekking. Nights at high camp drop to minus three to minus five degrees Celsius, so proper layering matters.
How We Run This Trek
Beyond the Valley operates two tours that include Thallay La. The Thallay La Trek is an 11 day programme with a maximum group size of 12 trekkers, starting from USD 2,286 per person. For those who want the full Baltistan experience, the Grand Traverse of Baltistan combines the Nangma Valley and Thallay La over 14 to 15 days.
Every guide on our Thallay La treks is from the valleys the route passes through. Our porters are local. Food is sourced from local farms and markets. The economic benefit of each trek stays in the communities that make the experience possible.
We are the first tour company in Pakistan to hold Travelife Sustainability Certification, and our Thallay La operations are designed to protect the alpine meadows that make this trek extraordinary. Small groups, waste management protocols, and community consultation before and after each season are built into how we operate.
The Green Karakoram Is Waiting
The Karakoram does not have to mean glaciers and granite. At Thallay La, it means wildflowers, shepherd huts, and a 4,800 metre pass that was old before the borders were drawn.
If you are considering your first trek in Pakistan, or if you want to see a side of the Karakoram that most visitors never reach, this is where to start.
View the full Thallay La Trek itinerary or get in touch to start planning your journey.
